In early February I took some time a much needed vacation and headed off to my favorite destination in Europe: Italy. This was my second visit to Italy and while I wish it was all fun and games, I did do some work too. But the work I did, is something I love, I staged (an unpaid apprenticeship) at some of Italy’s best restaurants.
The first part of my trip took me to Reggiolo, a town in the province of Reggio Emilia which is in the region of Emilia Romagna. Lots of R’s- no? This area is the home of the most well known and respected ingredients in Italy: Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale. This is my second trip to this region and my second time visiting my friend Andrea Bezzecchi, one of the best balsamic producers in the Italy.
While in Reggiolo, I had the opportunity to work at one of my favorite restaurants, the two-Michelin-starred Il Rigoletto run by husband-and-wife team, Gianni and Fulvia D’Amato with their son, Frederico. Last year I dined at Il Rigoletto and many of the dishes we ate inspired ideas and dishes I’ve carried out in Spiaggia. This time, I would stage in the kitchen.
But, before I jumped in the kitchen, I was given the opportunity to dine once more and here are the highlights:
- The assagino (the Italian “small bite”) was a duo of warm pumpkin puree with anchovy, sliced almonds, toasted breadcrumbs and then a crunchy mortadella fritter with saffron aioli. I loved how these ingredients complimented each other, its not something I would have thought – it was fantastico!
- For the second course, I was given a slice of toasted Italian bread that was doused with Il Rigoletto private label olive oil from the recent 2009 vintage. It’s a risk-taker to serve bread and olive oil as a course, but this is true Italian cuisine – fresh, simple ingredients.
- Note: fresh olive oil should be bright green, just like we had that evening.
- Next came out a white porcelain box on a stark black plate. A closer look revealed a playful surprise from Gianni. In a blue marker, he marked the title of the dish, “Le Acciughe in scatola collezione 2010 Gianni D’Amato” and drew a picture of little anchovies. Frederico then lifted the lid of the box and there were seven perfectly rolled marinated anchovies, shining silver. The anchovies were paired with toasted pinenuts, fennel fronds, olive oil emulsion, and dehydrated black olive with orange and chocolate.
- Then we were served a small white square plate with an oyster shell, still furry with sea weed. On the shell was a small green leaf, called an oyster leaf. Then came a bowl with a large fresh oyster (from the shell in front of me) in a sauce of creamy buratta cheese with a rectangular shaped gelee of raspberry. I was instructed eat the leaf first then dive into the oyster with buratta. The oyster leaf tasted exactly like an oyster! I have to find this for Spiaggia! It was unbelievable – creamy, milky, brining, ocean, sweet, and tart!
- Next a dish came with one of this regions hidden treasure, Cotechino. A gelatinous, meaty pork sausage made from the muzzle of the pig. The cotechino is braised, then sliced and layered with potato puree, served with lentils and lambrusco. This dish is a perfect use of this regions specialties.
- Then came out the pasta, green bigoli (flavored with rapini leaves) with fagioli dall’occhio bean puree, anchovy, peperoncini and black fermented garlic. The dish was complex and opened up with every bite. I found myself craving this toothsome hand made pasta the rest of the trip.
- Unlike most of today’s chefs, Gianni pastry skills are skillfully honed. Out of all of the sweet dishes, Gianni’s mozzerella di bufala mousse with a tomato vanilla gelee was the most interested as it was a playful take on the classic Caprese salad.
The dinner was finished with a digestif and great conversation with Gianni, Fulvia, and Arturro, their Yorkie. The next day I would spend with Gianni and Fulvia behind the scenes.
Le Accuighe in scatola “Collezione 2010 Gianni D’Amato”
My marinated anchovy course with a special note from chef Gianni.